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The Napa Valley is booming

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If you have been traveling in the Napa Valley this summer you may have noticed that traffic is heavier, restaurants and lodging more crowded, and tasting rooms jammed. The North Bay Business Journal reports that tourism in the Valley is up 68% since the recession low in 2009. Yes, the Napa Valley is booming, and it is only going to get busier as several major projects are in the works up and down the Valley.

Archer Napa Hotel

In the town of Napa, construction will start on the Archer Napa Hotel this Fall. It will be built on the 1200 block of First Street, where the closed Merrill Drug store is located. The Archer Napa will be an upscale hotel with 183 rooms, a restaurant, and retail space. Final approval, barring any unforeseen issues, will come at the Napa City Council meeting on August 19. The rendering in the photo shows the stunning landscape of the five-story Archer Napa Hotel. There are a few current businesses on the block that will have to vacate. The most notable business at this location is the Ceja Vineyards tasting room. Ceja has had an amazing run since their opening in 2008. They have stated that they will not open a tasting room in the retail area of the new Archer, but will move to another location soon. Closely associated with this hotel project is the Napa Town Center. It has been somewhat of an eyesore in downtown Napa, but is currently getting a major facelift. Developer Todd Zapolski is orchestrating this and is in partnership with Lodgeworks on the Archer Hotel.

archer napa

Archer Napa – architectural rendering provided by Lodgeworks

Freemark Abbey

Moving up to St. Helena, just north of the business area is the Freemark Abbey winery owned by Jackson Family Wines. Our grapevine sources tell us that Jackson Family Wines will renovate Freemark Abbey to the tune of 30 million dollars. Plans call for a hotel and restaurant. This apparently is all in the planning stages but, rest assured, Jackson Family Wines will move quickly on this project.

Cairdean Estate

Almost directly across the street from Freemark Abbey on Highway 29 is the Cairdean Winery. This was once the location of the St. Helena outlet stores. Currently there is a Cairdean tasting room, and the  Farmer and the Fox restaurant. Soon to open on August 18 is a bakery and sandwich shop. My guess is, given the location, this bakery is going to one busy spot.  Under construction is a winemaking facility with enough caves to produce 50,000 gallons of wine annually. Also under construction is a two-story structure which will serve as an art gallery and merchant space. The interesting thing is that when Edwin and Stacia Williams bought this property, along with it came a surprise: a Commercial Limited permit. This enables the Williams’ to do a lot with this property that new business establishments cannot do under the current county codes. What a bonanza for Edwin and Stacia! The tasting room is open and I, for one, will be there on our next visit to the Napa Valley. My only worry is the possible traffic congestion, with folks attempting to turn left in and out of the entrance. Highway 29 along that stretch moves fast, and it can be precarious no doubt.

Cairdean Estate is currently constructing a event center and blah.

Cairdean Estate is currently constructing a winery and art gallery.

Silver Rose Resort

The old Silver Rose Inn across from Solage is being demolished as we write this article. Demolition should wrap up in another week and construction will start immediately. The Silver Rose will be replaced with an 84-room hotel, along with a restaurant, a winery, and a six-acre vineyard. There will also be twenty private homes built on the property. Calistoga residents approved the resort in the last election, and the town and community are behind this project. Kelly Foster, of Bald Mountain Development, expects that the resort and facilities will take approximately two years to build. So with the Solage and the Silver Rose across from it, let’s see what good old competition will bring to the wine country traveler. I think, in the off season, there will be deals to be had for rooms and meals. I love the Travelzoo specials!  Will we find some increased traffic congestion up at the northern end of the Silverado Trail? My guess is yes, but we’ll have to wait for a couple of years to find out.

 

 

 

Julie at Goosecross Cellars

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Wine, for me, is all about the experience and having fun with old friends and new. Goosecross Cellars, a family-owned winery in Yountville, delivers on both excellent wines and plain, old wine fun! The ideal wine experience for me includes more than delicious wines. The experience is also about wine education, approachable staff and lots of great conversation. Goosecross sets the bar on all three in my book.

The tasting room at Goosecross

The tasting room at Goosecross

The Goosecross Cellars tasting room is always full, and, yet, they make sure that every guest feels like a VIP.  If they know your name or recognize you, they will greet you loudly. It almost feels like you have entered into an episode of Cheers.   They have a menu of different tastings, but be prepared to try wines that are not on the tasting list.  They will invite you to try other wines on hand and tailor the tasting to your personal preferences.  The Goosecross crew also loves to joke around with its visitors and expects to be harassed back.  For example, on a recent visit to the winery, I received the nickname “Puddin.”  I always like to come to Goosecross as my final winery, because I know that I will end the day on a positive note and get great recommendations for dinner.

This fun and approachable atmosphere sets the stage for their award winning wines.  Whereas I am not a sommelier or well-versed in viticulture and enology, I do know what characteristics I like in a wine.  My personal favorite is the 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is a smooth, special occasion Cab that is great paired with food or enjoyed by itself.  Goosecross also sells a special order, chocolate-dipped bottle of the Howell Mountain Cab.  The 2011 Cabernet Franc is another of my recommendations.  Cabernet Franc is usually a blending wine, but this one stands on its own.  Goosecross also makes a number of white wines that turned me into a white wine drinker as well.  Their Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs are crisp and delicious.  I also like the sweeter 2011 Orange Muscat.  All three are perfect for a warm summer day.  Goosecross’ wines are also typically ready to drink.

If you are so inspired, their wine club structure has a level for everyone.  You can join the two, four, six or twelve-bottle club.  Goosecross also hosts great members’ events.  Recently, I attended the Winemakers BBQ.  This event welcomed new winemaker, Bill Nancarrow.  It was both family friendly and fun for couples and singles.  They had a bouncy house for the kiddos and an upbeat country band playing for the duration.  The evening included four wines (2012 Sauvignon Blanc, 2012 Estate Chardonnay, 2011 Zinfandel, 2009 State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon) and a catered barbecue.  Winemaker, Bill Nancarrow, visited each table, poured the wines and talked with each guest.  It felt like the party was at his home.  Goosecross really knows how to celebrate a relaxing summer evening with great wines, good food and excellent company.

Next time you are driving along the Silverado Trail, turn off for a visit to Goosecross Cellars.  You will not be disappointed!

Goosecross Cellars is located at 1119 State Lane in Yountville.  It is approximately 200 yards off of the Silverado Trail and 300 yards from downtown Yountville.  Their tasting room is open seven days a week from 10:00am-4:30pm.

goosecross tasting room

Julie’s Napa Valley Getaway

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This is an article written by our friend Julie. She is a former student of mine and the daughter of a good friend and wine tasting buddy. Julie loves to travel and has a great perspective on how to have fun in wine country and enjoy wine tasting. Here is Julie’s Napa Valley Getaway and some of her advice on planning a Napa Valley getaway.

napa valley getawayThe Napa Valley wine country sits ninety minutes northeast of San Francisco. It is a great location for a weekend getaway or a long day trip with fantastic options for wine tasting. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, this is your region. Wineries in Napa range from small, family-owned to the bigger, more corporate labels. It is worth it to do some research before you go to both plan your wine route and decide where to stay.

When visiting the Napa Valley for wine tasting, consider the following places: Downtown Napa, Yountville, Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga. Downtown Napa is the first wine town that you hit when travelling down Highway 29. As you travel further into the valley, you will drive through each town. The towns become progressively cuter and progressively more expensive in terms of accommodations. Here is a brief description of each town:

Downtown Napa

This section of Napa is along the Napa River. Cute family-owned businesses line the streets with many bed and breakfast inns leading up to the downtown area. Just over the bridge from the downtown is the Oxbow Market. It is similar to the San Francisco Ferry Building with several restaurants, bakeries, wine stores, produce stands and cookware stores. Oxbow was my personal favorite on this trip due to the number of gluten free options at the market. Every restaurant and bakery in the market had good gluten free options. Cate & Co. Bakery even had a gluten free sourdough baguette. I was in heaven. Stop by the Oxbow Market before your day of wine tasting to pick up lunch or have a leisurely breakfast.

Yountville

bouchon bakeryYountville is the pricier, trendier town of the group. Accommodations are high end and there is a mix of hotels and B&Bs. Everything in downtown Yountville is within walking distance and everything is beautiful. Yountville also boasts some fabulous restaurants. Redd and Michael Chiarello’s Bottega are both on the main strip. Reservations are helpful; however, seating is often available at the bar as well. This is also a good way to chat up the bartender for food and travel tips. Bouchon, located just across the street from Bottega, serves baked goods all day. You will know when you have arrived at Bouchon as there is a line out the door all day long. There are also tasting rooms and spas downtown.

St. Helena and Calistoga

St. Helena and Calistoga are towns up north of the Valley. They can be best explained as a cross between Yountville and Downtown Napa. Accommodations are pricey, but the atmosphere is more laid back. You will see a lot of family-owned businesses on the road through both St. Helena and Calistoga. There are more spas in St. Helena and Calistoga and some of the wineries are off the main road.

Napa Travel Tips

Napa Valley is one of the more expensive and sophisticated wine regions. However, do not let that intimidate you. Here are some travel tips to keep you on budget and in tune with your wine experience:

  1. When wine tasting, always have a designated driver. A wine tour is a great way to plan your day and have a safe driver for your group.
  2. For proximity to the wine country, I recommend staying between Downtown Napa and Calistoga. Most wineries are around twenty minutes (or closer) from those locations. Anything outside of that area will be a long haul to and from wineries and spas.
  3. There are few, if any, budget accommodations in Napa Valley. Sites like Groupon and Expedia post deals from time to time. You can also call Napa Valley Reservations (707) 252-1985. One trick is to call the day before you leave or the day of your departure. I found reasonably priced ($167/night), super cute, no frills accommodations in a good location at the Chablis Inn ten minutes from Yountville and ten minutes from Downtown Napa by calling the last minute. There was even a Starbucks and a grocery store across the street.
  4. Know your limit on the number of wineries you can visit in one day. Mine is three. By the time I go to a fourth winery, I can’t taste the wine anymore because my palate is shot.
  5. Napa tends to be pricier in terms of tasting fees. Plan to spend between $15 – $30 for each tasting. Most wineries will allow you to split a tasting with another person. Even though a taste is a one ounce pour, keep in mind that you will taste about the equivalent of a glass of wine at each winery.
  6. Drink lots of water between wineries, especially on hot days.
  7. You don’t have to be a sommelier to know what wines you like. Read the profiles on the tasting lists and listen to the wine education from the servers at the tasting rooms. You will start to notice which flavor profiles suit you. For example, if a wine is described as having anise or licorice notes, I know that I will love it. This is also my strategy for choosing a tasting list.
  8. If you would like some more of a wine that you tasted, ask to “revisit” that particular wine. You’ll sound like a wine pro! However, most wineries will ask you, “Would you like to revisit anything?”, at the end of the tasting.
  9. Keep in mind that wine is personal. What you love, another person will not. What you taste in a wine, another person might not. It’s all part of the experience.
  10. And, most importantly, have fun and chat up those tasting room hosts!

All Aboard the Wine Bus!

platypus wine bus

Platypus Wine Bus

A wine tour is the best way to spend a day wine tasting. They provide a designated driver, lunch and a selection of wineries to visit. On this wine excursion, I booked with Platypus Tours. All of the wine tour operators offer similar services, so I enact…the attitude test. Platypus passed with flying colors. They are about the wine experience – having fun and learning about wine in an approachable environment. They value humor (just read their website!) They visit quality, family-owned, boutique wineries in different parts of the valley. Since most of the wineries are family owned, our group got access to barrel rooms, winemakers, and wine caves that bigger wineries just don’t have the time to do. Led by our fearless guide, Greg, we visited four fantastic family-owned wineries: Rutherford Grove, David Fulton, Bennett Lane and Dutch Henry. My favorites were:

Rutherford Grove: Rutherford Grove is off of Highway 29 just past Yountville. There are two tastings to choose from – a reds only, Estate Reserve tasting, and a white and red, Rutherford Estate tasting. The Estate Reserve tasting has two Cabs and two Merlots on it. I chose the Rutherford Estate tasting and tasted the following:

  • The crisp and grapefruity 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
  • The light and smooth 2009 Quackenbush Mountain Zinfandel from Lake County (This is a very well-priced, quality Mountain Zin at $18 per bottle. It tasted more expensive.)
  • The delicious 2010 Estate Sangiovese with my favorite hint of licorice
  • The 2008 Petite Syrah, a light and fruity wine from the St. Helena property

Roger, our host, also educated us about the region, the winery’s history and each wine. In fact, his grapes are in the delicious 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon on the Estate Reserve tasting menu. He made us feel like we were drinking wine on his back deck. Rutherford Grove is a must visit!

david fulton tasting room

Jason at David Fulton

David Fulton: David Fulton winery is up the road and off the beaten path in St. Helena. This is the oldest, continuously family-owned winery in the region. The tasting room feels like a cozy, hunting cabin, and Jason Elkin, our host, balanced our education with wine humor. Winemaker, Richard Mather, also paid us a visit during the tasting. My favorites of the day were:

  • The caramely and crisp 2011 Chardonnay. As someone who was never a fan of Chardonnay in the past, this is a huge statement on my part. I wish I had bought a case!
  • The 2010 Vintner Red Blend #Bromance. This wine was developed by our host, Jason Elkin, and winemaker, Richard Mather, for their label, ME Wines. A portion of the proceeds are donated to the families of fallen soldiers. This wine, with hints of lavender and Bakers chocolate, is a true tribute.
  • The refined 2011 Old Vine Sweet Petite “Port Style”. All I can say is, “Wow!”. If you like port, you will love the Old Vine Sweet Petite.

This winery was also our lunch stop for the day. The group enjoyed sandwiches and salad with glasses of wine on the back deck overlooking the vineyard. Delicious in so many ways!

Bennett Lane: Next stop was the Bennett Lane winery in Calistoga. We started our tasting with a bright, crisp glass of their 2011 Reserve Chardonnay. Our host toured us through their fermentation room and then it was back to the tasting room. In addition to the 2011 Reserve Chardonnay, we also tasted the 2009 Maximus, 2007 Syrah and the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Once again, my favorite had anise notes: the 2009 Cab. And, once again, a crisp Chardonnay won me over!

dutch-henry-caveDutch Henry: Dutch Henry was our final stop for the day. The winery has wine caves on the property. In between tasting different wines and playing with Maybelline, the winery cat, Greg gave us a tour of the wine caves on the property. The winery uses the caves to both age wine in barrels and host events. The caves were dug into the mountain and are reinforced. This property boasts a great location for a picnic in addition to their high-end wines. A tasting at Dutch Henry costs $25 and includes six new release wines. I highly recommend the Argos.

In addition to being our designated driver, our guide, Greg, was also our personal chef, tour comedian, and resident wine expert. Throughout the tour, he taught us about the region and its wines – a real Wine 101 course! Platypus definitely provides a quality wine experience with excellent choices in wineries and a comprehensive overview of the Napa Valley wine region. For a fun day with excellent wine, book with Platypus!

Wine tours are also a great way for solo travellers, like myself, to meet people while travelling.

Salud to you and your Napa Valley wine experience!

Why you should visit Raymond Vineyards

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My, how things have changed at Raymond Vineyards! We’d visited Raymond Vineyards in 2007 and in our blog post wrote “nondescript tasting room and nothing memorable about the winery.” Today it is alive with activity for the wine country traveler, with several wine tasting activities and educational experiences to choose from. We had a lively visit to Raymond Vineyards on Tuesday of this past week. Here is what we found and why we think you should visit  Raymond Vineyards.

New owner at Raymond Vineyards – Jean-Charles Boisset

In 2011 Jean-Charles Boisset and Family purchased Raymond Vineyards from a Japanese company. This Japanese company had purchased the winery from the original owners, descendants of the Beringer Family who’d founded the winery in 1971. Jean-Charles Boisset is a dynamic individual who grew up with wine as the center of his life. This was in the Burgundy region of France where his family owns vineyards and wineries. Jean-Charles is affable, flamboyant, and loves to entertain wine country visitors. He also owns the Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma and the DeLoach Vineyards near Santa Rosa. He has done a remarkable job transforming each of these three wineries.

Drop-In Wine Tasting at Raymond Vineyards

In the main tasting room we dropped in without an appointment. We were offered two tastings: For $15 per person, it was a wine tasting of entry level wines that are widely distributed. The $25 tasting covers the current release of wines that are sold only at the winery or through the wine club. We chose the $25 tasting that included six wines. The tasting room has a great artistic display on the wall facing visitors. See the photo below. The wines we tasted were very good, but two for us were standouts. The Meritage White Wine is 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillion. What makes this wine distinctive is that a portion has been fermented in neutral oak barrels. This gives the wine more depth and a wonderful mouth feel. The 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé had just been released. “Dry and refreshing” is the best way to describe this wine.

The wall in the main tasting room. Impressive!

The wall in the main tasting room. Impressive!

By Appointment tastings at Raymond Vineyards

Nearby the main tasting room are the Cystal Room, The Barrel Room, the Blending Room, the Rutherford Room, the Red Room, and the Library Room. Each of these features a different style or format for tasting. What winery have you been to that offers this many choices for tasting wine? In the blending room the actvitiy is “Winemaker of the Day.” For $100 you can work to create your own blend of wine, using all the same equipment the actual winemaker uses to craft his wine. Once done, you can take home your own bottle of wine. These tastings require an appointment, so book ahead.

The Crystal Room

The Crystal Room

Theater of Nature

The biggest change to the vineyards is the switch to biodynamic farming. Visitors can learn about biodynamic farming and other activities by taking the Theater of Nature trail. We bumped into the head gardener for the nature trail. I asked him about the vegetables growing and why they looked so healthy. “This is biodynamics in action,” he boasted. The veggie garden is used by the head chef for special events and tastings. You can spend an easy 45 minutes strolling this nature trial. It is quite informative, explaining the principles of Biodynamics and vineyard practices.

cow horns

On the trail in the Theater of Nature we see the cow horns for biodynamic tea

In one of the hallways, there is a station for experiencing the common aromas and flavors found in wine. We have seen these before, but not where they have worked as well to deliver authentic aromas to the nose. I wish there were more of these aroma stations, representing more of the common characteristics of wine.

aroma wine stations

Aroma stations for guests to experience common characteristics found in wine

The winery is on Zinfandel Lane and open daily from 10am to 4pm. It is a good idea to peruse the Raymond Vineyard Website and see which tasting experience you prefer. Call ahead for an appointment but, by all means, drop in and take in a few of the wine adventures at Raymond Vineyards.

Napa Valley Travel News

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All the Napa Valley travel news that’s fit to make your Napa Valley wine country getaway a good stay.

St.Helena Shuttle

st helena shuttle serviceDid you know that the town of St. Helena has a shuttle service? This shuttle service works slightly different than the Calistoga shuttle that we mentioned in a previous article on our blog. During the week, the St. Helena shuttle offers a fixed route, but the service is also available “on demand.”  Travelers must call during business hours to secure their pickup. The shuttle runs until 11 pm on Friday and Saturdays. Weekdays, the shuttle service ends at 6 pm. If you are staying within the city limits of St.Helena, you can call the shuttle and arrange a pickup and drop off. It is $1 per person each way. What a deal. Shuttle Information

New St. Helena Restaurant

The Farmer and the Fox is open for dinner. The restaurant is north of St. Helena, maybe a mile or so beyond the Culinary Center. It is tucked away on the left as  you drive towards Calistoga. The area used to be an outlet center. Now it is the Cairdean Estate. We have not eaten at the restaurant, but peeked inside, and the place looks very inviting. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling 707-302-5701 or at Farmer & Fox Website. The restaurant is open daily from 5 to 10 pm. The bar features 8 wines on tap, 8 beers on tap, and imaginatively-crafted artisanal cocktails. The executive Chef is Joseph Humphrey,  well known for his days at Auberge du Soleil and The Restaurant at Meadowood

farmer and fox restaurant

Farmer and the Fox in St. Helena

Cooking Series at HALL Wines

hall cooking and food seriesHall Wines in Rutherford will conduct a cooking series led by culinary expert David Katz. Each series will provide a unique look at pairing newly-released HALL Wines with the best of Napa’s artisan products and fresh, seasonal produce. Here are the sessions at Hall Rutherford. Information David Katz.

Summer 2014: July 17th, 5-7pm, $115 per person, $100/HALL Members

“Pizza on the Patio”

Pizza is an obsession in Napa Valley for good reason. With the flavor, texture and aroma of freshly cooked pizza dough as a starting point, we can find beautiful partners for a broad pallet of wines. Learn how to make perfect pizza dough by hand, and taste simple combinations that sing with HALL Wines. These recipes will showcase local summer produce, artisan cheeses, fresh fish, and meats.

Fall 2014: Sept. 25th, 5-7pm, $115 per person, $100/HALL Members

“Harvest Season Hors d’Oeuvre”

Harvest season brings some of our favorite local foods to the table. We’ll turn this bounty into hors d’oeuvre and antipasti that pair beautifully with selected HALL Wines, and discuss the complement and contrast that give wine and food pairing texture and interest.

Winter 2014: December 4th, 5-7pm, $115 per person, $100/HALL Members

“Holiday Entertaining”

Sit down to four small-plates that showcase holiday-season entertaining ideas with HALL Wines. We’ll taste a vegetarian soup, fish, fowl and meat courses, as we explore the critical roles of body and acidity in wine and food pairing.

New Restaurant to Open in Napa

CADET will open in downtown Napa on July 2nd at the location between First street and Franklin Alleys. Colleen Fleming of Kelly Fleming wines in Calistoga and sommelier Aubrey Bailey will collaborate on this restaurant. CADET means “trainee.”  The name reflects the idea to try something new each day that reflects something exceptional from California cuisine and beyond.

In addition, CADET will be offering educational classes and other special events such as Industry Nights, Winemaker Events, Ladies’Nights and Community Lunches, where public service professionals such as firemen, school teachers and city workers are celebrated for their contributions to the community.

Bailey states, “Our wine and beer list highlights wines from every region in California, not just the Napa Valley. This is a chance for people–locals and visitors alike–to explore and to discover what else is out there, what the winemakers are drinking, what historic vineyards or grape varieties are being revived, experimental beer making, etc. Basically a reminder of what California has always stood for: diversity.”

Napa Valley Cave Tour

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Napa Valley cave tour and tasting at Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards

Napa Cave Tour

Napa Valley cave tour is cool!

One of the many fun things to do on a wine country getaway is to take a Napa Valley cave tour. Many of the wineries that have caves, old and new, are finding that wine country travelers enjoy the uniqueness of sitting in a cave and tasting wine. Napa Valley wineries that have cave tours require an appointment and fees are generally $35 and upwards. The advantages of a Napa Valley cave tour for the wine traveler are several: They are for small groups only, guests have intimate wine tasting experiences, and sitting in a wine cave is very different from a regular tasting room experience.

 We took just such a tour at Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards this past Thursday. The winery is tucked away in Conn Valley, far from the crowds on the Valley floor. It is one of the earlier wineries in the Valley, with a first vintage date of 1988. We had the good fortune to have our tour and tasting led by Anderson’s Conn Valley winemaker Rob Hunt.  Rob has been the head winemaker at Conn Valley only since 2012. Rob has produced two wonderful white wines, but his 2012 and 2013 reds are sitting in the barrel aging and they are as he states, “my final test as the new winemaker at Conn Valley.”

 

cave tour

Anderson’s Conn Valley winemaker Rob Hunt

Rob Hunt has one of the more fascinating stories on how he became a winemaker. He earned a degree in civil engineering and for several years worked in the Silicon Valley designing and implementing “clean rooms” for companies manufacturing computer chips.  It did not take too many 70-hour work weeks to figure out there must be something better to do in life. Rob loved food and wine. Would he become a chef or a winemaker?  He took a job at the Pine Ridge winery as a cellar rat and thus began his adventures in his winemaking career. His work at Pine Ridge, Ovid, Colgin, and Clos Pegase brought him many valuable experiences and encounters with renowned winemakers and growers. He has taken that knowledge and, with his scientific background, is forging his way to his own winemaking style.

barrel sample cab

Barrel sample of 2012 Cabernet

 We tasted seven wines and two barrel samples, all in the beautiful setting of Anderson’s Conn Valley’s cave. The 2013 Sauvignon Blanc exploded with beautiful flavors and had a delicious mouth feel and aftertaste. It is one of the higher-priced SB’s around at $40, but it is outstanding. The Pinot Noir from the Green Island area south of Napa was big for a Pinot, but lovely to taste. Then on to the signature wines of Anderson’s Conn Valley, the Cabernets and Bordeaux-style wines. 2011 was a rough harvest for Cabernet, but you would not know this while tasting the 2011 Estate Reserve Cabernet. Rob says this wine will age into elegance and be a standout. Another wonderful wine is the 2011 Right Bank, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, made in the style of the famous St. Emilion winery, Chateau Cheval Blanc. It’s an earthy wine reminiscent of the old country. This wine was our favorite of the tasting. We ended our cave tour and tasting with a barrel sample of 2012 estate Cabernet. This wine has a few months left in the barrel before bottling, and then it will sit in the bottle for another year before release. What an amazing wine! The fruit is abundant, solid, and complex. Rob thinks the 2012 vintage will go down as one of the best, not just for Cabernet but other varietals as well.

 To get to Anderson’s Conn Valley, take the Silverado Trail, and watch for Howell Mountain Road just south of Deer Park Road. Drive about a mile up Howell Mountain Road and take Conn Valley Road for another one-and-a-half miles. Take Rossi Road on the left and look for the signs to the winery. The Cave tour and tasting are daily at 10 am, noon, and 2 pm.  The tasting fee is $45 per person.

 Two other nearby wineries worthy of a tasting and tour are Buehler Vineyards and Amizetta winery. To get to these two wineries continue along Conn Valley Road 1.5 miles and turn left on Greenfield Road. Buehler is about half a mile ahead on Greenfield and Amizetta another mile beyond that. Amizetta has a barrel cave but Buehler does not. Both of these wineries, along with Anderson’s Conn Valley, require appointments in advance.  Happy wine travels!

 

How to Visit the Napa Valley

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The tourist season is in full swing in the Napa Valley. Visitors will flock to the Napa Valley from now until the end of September. It is estimated that 5 million visitors travel to the Napa Valley each year, and you can bet most of those visits are in the summer months. Weekend traffic is at a virtual standstill along Highway 29. Cars turning left or right, in and out of tasting rooms, resemble a game of Russian Roulette. The popular tasting rooms are jammed with travelers, sometimes three deep, waiting to get a taste. Tasting fees are at an all-time high, ranging on the average from $15 to $35 a person (Napa Valley Wine Tasting Index ). Getting a restaurant or lodging reservation is tough unless you plan weeks ahead. Expenses for a weekend stay, dining and tasting, could run well above $1000. Yet despite all of this, the Napa Valley is a very cool place to visit. With this advice on how to visit the Napa Valley, you can make your trip more enjoyable.

how to visit napa valley

How to Visit the Napa Valley

How to Visit the Napa Valley

  • Plan, plan, and plan some more. Start booking restaurants and lodging several weeks before for the high tourist season.
  • The earlier in the day you visit tasting rooms, the less busy they will be. A majority of tasting rooms open at 10 am. Be sure to have a designated driver or use a spit cup. See how to use a spit cup.
visit Napa

Envy Winery: You can visit this winery early and it is just north of Calistoga on the backroads

  • Visit some of the lesser-known wineries off the beaten path. See our Hidden Wine Trail. Or, drive the Silverado Trail Wine Route.
  • Consider visiting wineries that are open by appointment only for a tour and tasting. These wineries usually limit the number of visitors. It may cost more, but you will get special attention and not have to fight the crowds.
Napa Valley appointment only

Beuhler Vineyards is away from the crowds at the base of Howell Mountain and requires an appointment

  • The busiest area of the Napa Valley is on Highway 29 from Yountville to St. Helena. Visit wineries north of Yountville and there will be less traffic and fewer visitors.
  • In Coombsville, just south of Napa, there are a number of wineries less traveled. Coombsville Vintners and Growers Association
  • In north Napa Valley, the Calistoga area is much less traveled. Try the Calistoga Wine Trail.
  • You can save on tasting room fees. Ask for two-for-one tasting room coupons at your hotel or the local tourist office. If you see one of the many winery travel guide magazines, browse them and you will find tasting room coupons. Clip them!
  • There are some “budget” hotels and lodging in the Napa Valley. See our list.
  • Of course the weekdays are much less busy, but in the tourist season expect just a bit smaller crowds than on the weekend.

We have a very handy trip planner and winery guide to help you select wineries according to your needs. We also like this little quick video on Napa Valley Travel Tips.

Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen without Cindy

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Note: Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen closed in 2018. Cindy is still operating Mustard’s Grill in Yountville.

We took a very quick overnight trip to the Napa Valley to view a house that a family relative is considering purchasing. On the way, we stopped in St. Helena for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen. Several weeks ago we read in the S.F. Chronicle that Cindy Pawlcyn had been in a car accident. The newspaper report indicated that Cindy suffered minor injuries. We asked our server how she was doing. She stated that Cindy’s injuries were extensive. She spent several weeks in the hospital and will not return to her kitchen for perhaps as long as 4 months. Our meal was excellent, but we felt something was amiss at the restaurant. Cindy is obviously missed by all. We wish Cindy a speedy recovery.

piquillo peppers stuffed

Stuffed piquillo peppers

A Visit to V. Sattui

Sign in tasting room

Sign in tasting room

I am always amazed at the number of folks who visit this winery and buy wine in huge amounts. I wonder, as probably winery owners in the Valley do, how it is that Dario Sattui is able sell all his wine out of his tasting room. None of the Sattui wine is distributed. The tasting room is a bevy of activity. Our server was efficient and knowledgeable. He knew each Sattui wine like the back of his hand. Impressive, to say the least. By the way, visitors can try one complimentary taste of wine, otherwise it is $15 to taste a lineup of several wines. We had previously tasted the Sattui wines as well as the wines from Castello di Amorosa, Dario’s newer winery located near Calistoga. The overall quality of the wines is very high. Winemaker Brooks Painter is the winemaker for both wineries. The St. Helena tasting room has a cheese and deli shop where visitors can purchase food items and head outside for a picnic lunch. No outside wine is allowed (understandable) and no outside food. I think that is a bit stiff on the food control, but it seems to work because the expansive picnic area is very busy. I need to do more digging into the tremendous success of Dario Sattui and his wines.

Calistoga Tidbits

In the late afternoon we walked along Lincoln Avenue, the business area of Calistoga. Since our last visit, there are a couple of new tasting rooms in town and one new restaurant. Do you remember Wappo, a restaurant with an eclectic menu? It closed down several years ago, but recently reopened as 1226 Washington. The menu looks great and, at the W.H. Smith Tasting Room, our server highly recommended it. We will give it a try the next time to Calistoga.

At the W.H. Smith tasting room, we shared a tasting of 6 wines for $15. The wines were all delicious but expensive. The Sauvignon Blanc was $28. The lineup of Pinot Noir wines was fantastic, but again expensive. Our favorite from the Sonoma Coast was above $50.

Solbar Restaurant at Solage

This is the top restaurant in Calistoga. The restaurant is situated in the beautiful and luxurious Solage resort. We had a lovely dinner outside in the warm evening air. The food, wine and atmosphere were excellent. Surprisingly, we found the service lacking. Slow, slow, and slower was our experience. For example, our party ordered a second bottle of wine and it took 10 minutes to arrive. The check including tip came to $390 for four.

The Solbar restaurant at Solage Resort

The Solbar restaurant at Solage Resort

Calistoga Cab Hopper

I would like to recommend this little taxi company that serves the Calistoga area. They are pricy at $5 a mile, but Calistoga is a small area. As it states in the brochure, taking the Hopper is more fun than spending a night in jail. We called the Hopper from the Solbar, and within ten minutes they were there to take us to our destination. I previously posted an article about the presence of Uber in the Napa Valley. However, they are not as yet servicing the Calistoga area of the Napa Valley.

CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY REGIONS:

Carneros • Livermore • Lodi • Mendocino • Monterey • Napa Valley • Paso Robles • Santa Barbara County • Santa Cruz Mts. • Sierra Foothills • Russian River • Sonoma Valley

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