El Dorado County Archives - Wine Country Getaways

Getaway to the Sierra Foothills Wine Country

February 21, 2017 by Joe Becerra

Looking out on the Shenandoah Valley from the Andis Winery

Looking out on the Shenandoah Valley from Andis Winery

Sierra Foothills Wine Country

Do you travel to the California wine country? Most likely you have been to Napa Valley and Sonoma. A getaway to the Sierra Foothills Wine Country is a vastly different experience. It is much more fun and rewarding. Don’t get me wrong; I love the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley wine country. Things have changed there recently, mostly in the cost and some snobbery. Not so in the Sierra Foothills. It is what the Napa Valley was like 25 years ago. We spent three days this last adventure in Amador and El Dorado Counties. We can’t wait to get back.

Sutter Creek

We made our home base in the old gold mining town of Sutter Creek, lodging at the Hanford House Inn. Owners Athena and Robert Gordon have made the Hanford House Inn into a warm, welcoming spot. The place is cozy and very comfortable. The restaurant at Hanford House Inn is called Element and is currently serving fantastic breakfast dishes. The plan is to have the restaurant open for dinner later in the year.

French Toast at Element Restaurant

Down the street, the best choice for dinner is the restaurant at the Hotel Sutter. The food is good with nightly specials, a full bar and wine list that includes local wineries. Two new spots are also preparing for dinner openings, Buffalo Chips and Cavana. Buffalo Chips has some fantastic sandwiches. A good place for coffee and sandwiches is Sina’s Backroads Cafe.

The grilled ham & cheese at Buffalo Chips

There are a plethora of quality wine tasting rooms in Sutter Creek, including Sera Fina, Bella Grace, Scott Harvey, Baiocchi, and Yorba. If you can only make it to one tasting room, Yorba is it. Vintner Ann Kramer farms her Shake Ridge Vineyards and has winemaker Ken Bernards produce high-quality wines at reasonable prices that rival wines from any California wine region.

Amador County Wine Trails

The Amador wine country is 15 minutes from Sutter Creek. What we enjoy about this wine region is that most of the wineries are small and family-owned. Tasting rooms are quaint and friendly. Wine tasting fees are either free or no more than $10 per person. We have divided up the wineries into two distinct wine routes. Follow one of these trails and discover the spectacular Shenandoah Valley wine country in Amador.

Fair Play Wineries in El Dorado

From Sutter Creek, the small town of Fair Play and the wineries of Fair Play are approximately a 25-mile drive through the beautiful backroads of both Amador and El Dorado Counties. Two wineries not to be missed in Fair Play are Cedarville Vineyard and Skinner Vineyards. Both make fantastic wines. The Cedarville Viognier and Petite Sirah are delicious. The owners Susan Marks and Jonathan Lachs will make you feel very much at home.

Cozy Cedarville tasting room is located in the wine cellars

For complete information on all the regions of the Sierra Foothills – The Wineries of the Sierra Foothills. Here you will find all the information you need to plan a spectacular wine country getaway.

Green Manure at Cedarville Vineyard

March 6, 2015 by Joe Becerra

Green Manure at Cedarville Vineyard in El Dorado County

Green Manure Cover Crop Cedarville Vineyard – Zinfandel

Around this time of year, it is easy to spot the vineyards that are practicing sustainable and organic farming. The telltale signs are the rows of green plants growing in between the vines. These are called cover crops or green manure. Their purpose is to provide nitrogen to the soil, so the vineyard growers do not need to add chemical fertilizers. I aways wonder why this is not a practice among all vineyard managers and growers. We made our annual trip to Amador and El Dorado Counties last week. For the 12th year in succession, we visited Cedarville Vineyard in the Fair Play AVA. We always thoroughly enjoy a visit with the husband-wife team of Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks. They met at the U.C. Davis Enology program and have been a great team since, producing delicious Cedarville Vineyard wines. They planted their vineyards in Fair Play in 1997 and in 2010 switched over to organic farming. A large part of their organic farming is the use of green manure. Janelle and I were astounded at the lush growth of cover crops thriving at Cedarville, and in particular amid the rows of the head-pruned Zinfandel. I recorded this short video of Jonathan explaining the use of the green manure. Not only does it provide fertilizer to the soil but, in these drought conditions, the manure also enhances the moisture retention in the soil. Watch and listen to Jonathan as he clearly describes the use of the cover crops and what plants make up his mix of green manure.

Cedarville Vineyard is one of 19 wineries in the Fair Play area. It is open by appointment, so call ahead if you don’t want to miss tasting Cedarville wines. Several other Fair Play wineries have visiting days and times, so you can make a day of tasting and enjoying the Fair Play AVA. Check the Fair Play Wine Route for additional winery information. We like to stay in Sutter Creek, so it is about a 45-minute drive northeast to Fair Play. The ride up to Fair Play is stunning this time of year.

Cedarville Vineyard: getting better with age

March 3, 2014 by joe

Organic Cedarville Cabernet Sauvignon

Cedarville Vineyard

In 2002 we were visiting the Everett Ridge Winery on West Dry Creek Road in Sonoma County. There we met an assistant winemaker. We mentioned that we were leaving the next day to head up to the Sierra Foothills near Plymouth. Without hesitation he told us not to miss Cedarville Vineyard in the Fair Play region. We followed his advice and have been back to Cedarville Vineyard each year since then.

Cedarville Vineyard is one of our favorite wineries in the entire California wine region. The winery is owned and operated by the husband-wife team of Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks. The two met in the winemaking program at U.C. Davis. From there it was a long work stint for both in the Silicon Valley in the high tech world, so that they could eventually afford to buy land in the Fair Play area. They purchased the property in 1995 and would travel each weekend from San Jose to tend to the vines and begin work on their winery, until it was ready for full-time wine production. Their first vintage was 1998.

Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks

We love coming to visit each year because Jonathan and Susan are the perfect hosts. They are so different than most winery owners. They are eager to see us, along with our group of wine friends. It is a pleasure to hear their enthusiasm as we taste through each of the seven wines they produce. Their vineyards are at 2500 feet altitude in the Sierra Foothills and the soil is granite. In 2010 Jonathan and Susan began a switchover to organic farming of their vineyards. We have always enjoyed their wines, but even more so in the past few years. It is not necessarily the organic farming that has made the wines better; it is the knowledge they have gained from each vintage. They understand their vines better and have fine-tuned their vineyard management accordingly. The Cedarville wines are definitely getting better with age.

Susan Marks with the wine gals on Valentine's Day

Susan Marks center with wine friends on Valentine’s Day

Only one white wine is produced and that is a lovely and enticing Viognier. In the reds, Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel varietals are produced. Two years ago Cedarville introduced a blend called Turnabout’s Fair Play. Very clever! And the wine is fantastic. The Turnabout is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. We tried a bottle of the 2010. It was fantastic – full flavored and rich with character. Sad to say, only a small amount of the wine was made and it is sold out. The Cedarville Grenache has somewhat of a cult following and often sells out within a few weeks following its release. The only non-estate wine is the Petite Sirah. The vineyard is one that Jonathan and Susan carefully chose for this delightful and elegant wine. It’s one of our favorites in the lineup. In fact, it is our “go to” wine when we cook up some baby back ribs on the barbeque. There is something about our spice rub that matches very well with the Cedarville Vineyard Petite Sirah.

We travel throughout California wine country and we think that the wines of Cedarville are some of the best values to be found. The wines are so well made, and all their wines except for the Turnabout are under $30. Twice a year, we receive from Cedarville a notice of the new releases. Those who purchase early get a discount, plus an additional discount when purchasing by the case. Our wine friends gather and we mix and match wines among us, buying in case lots. We then anxiously await our trip to Fair Play to pick up our wine and chat with premiere winemakers Jonathan and Susan.

If you want to visit Cedarville, check our Sierra Foothills Fair Play Wine Trail for additional wineries to visit and where to dine and lodge. Cedarville is open by appointment only. You will not be disappointed.

The new and improved Hanford House Inn

February 17, 2014 by joe

Main entrance

Hanford House Inn

Once a year we make a trip to the wine country of Amador and El Dorado Counties. We have been doing this since 1999 without a miss. The first couple of years it was just the two of us. We realized quickly that our friends would also love Sutter Creek and the surrounding wine country. Now eleven of us make this annual trek.

We have stayed in different B&B’s in Sutter Creek during that time, but by far our favorite has been the Hanford House Inn. Six years ago Robert and Athena Gordon purchased the Inn and each year they have made improvements. This past year they took the inn to a new level, even in the midst of welcoming their first baby! This recent Valentine’s Day we enjoyed a two-night stay at the newly-remodeled and improved Hanford House Inn.

Our room at the Hanford House Inn

The Hanford House Inn has been completed revamped over the past 11 months. Additions have been made to the main building, and all existing rooms have had a complete makeover. The renovation of the building is sleek and clean with great attention to “green” use of materials. The art and furnishings are eclectic, comfortable, and pleasing. The high ceilings and light in rooms create a spacious atmosphere. A new kitchen has been added, providing guests with a wonderful and different gourmet breakfast each morning. The kitchen will also be the center of Elements, a restaurant set to open in about four weeks.

There had been a large conference room at the inn that was seldom used for seminars, and the Gordons saw it as an ideal area to establish a restaurant. The restaurant will open initially for breakfast and then later for lunch and dinner. The town of Sutter Creek is in dire need of an upscale restaurant, and we hope that Elements can fill that need.

There are many good things to like about the Hanford House Inn but the best and most important for us are Robert and Athena Gordon. They are the perfect hosts. They treat their guests like they are family members staying as guests at their home. They are caring, thoughtful and gracious.

Cutouts from the walls in former breakfast area

One cool thing the Gordons did was preserve bits and pieces of the old Hanford House Inn. In the old breakfast room guests had been invited to write their thoughts on the wall with sharpies. The walls and ceiling were filled with memorable quotes. Rather than dump the walls in the remodel of the area, they saved random squares of the writings and have mounted them at various locations in the inn. A very nice touch! They also took the breakfast tables and refinished the wood to make a new set of dining tables.

Both mornings we had scones and coffee just outside our room. Breakfast was a delight with French Toast and sausage the first day followed by delicious Eggs Benedict with a lemon sauce on the second day.

Eggs Benedict

We are wine country and wine tasting enthusiasts and the location of Sutter Creek and the Hanford House Inn provide a gateway for exploring wineries in nearby Shenandoah Valley and beyond in the Fair Play area of El Dorado County. The town of Sutter Creek is becoming a wine tasting room mecca. With names like Yorba, Scott Harvey, and Bella Grace at the forefront, we will more than likely see additional tasting rooms on Main Street. Currently there are nine tasting rooms open.

The Hanford House Inn has 12 rooms in the main building and a separate cottage that has four rooms available. Book early because the Hanford House Inn is becoming a very popular spot.

Our friend Mary summed up our experience best: “The new design is very forward thinking in my opinion, but still retains the warmth of the inn. But this warmth is mostly due to the hosts, Robert and Athena, and now their new family addition, Ravi. The colors on the walls are gorgeous and each room blends gracefully into the other. Our second floor room was simply furnished and very comfortable and inviting. Breakfast was outstanding. Not being an Eggs Benedict fan, I was totally surprised with the mellowness of the Meyer Lemon sauce. Delicious. We’ll be back!”

Wine Adventures in the Fair Play AVA in El Dorado County

February 28, 2012 by joe

It was ten years ago that we first began making an annual trip to this wonderful wine country in the Sierra Foothills. Much has changed in that time, with many more wineries having been established in recent years, and very noticeable improvement in the quality of wines from this region.

Our base for our visit to the Sierra Foothills is the town of Sutter Creek. We consider it to be the best little town in the Gold Country of the Sierra Foothills. The town is quaint with many small shops, restaurants and other attractions. We make our home at the Hanford House Inn in Sutter Creek where owners Robert and Athena Gordon are very gracious hosts. On our annual trek to these parts, we always spend one full day exploring the wineries in the Fair Play AVA. It is about a 35-minute drive to Fair Play. The Fair Play AVA located in El Dorado County has the unique geographic feature of having the highest average elevation of any of the AVA’s in California. The average elevation is 2500 feet. Here are three wineries we enjoyed immensely in our visit the past week.

Cedarville Vineyards
Cedarville is always at the top of our list of wineries to visit. Owners Jonathan and Susan are a terrific winemaking team and they put their hearts and souls into making some fantastic wines. The emphasis is on Rhone wines, and in my opinion all their wines deliver high quality at a very reasonable price point. The wines are very balanced and layered, with many delicate characteristics. The winery is open by appointment, so call ahead before visiting. We tasted through the lineup of wines and once again were totally impressed with the overall quality. I must declare that their current release of the 2009 Syrah is the best they have made, and we have tried all their Syrah vintages. The other Rhone wines in their lineup include an organically grown Viognier, a Grenache, and a Petite Sirah. They also make a dazzling Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. All wines are estate grown except for the Petite Sirah. Their Grenache has become somewhat of a cult wine and sells out quickly once released and announced through their mailings.

Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks - Cedarville Winemakers

A Wine Getaway to Gold Country – Sutter Creek

March 23, 2011 by joe

Looking for something different in wine country travel? Why not try the Gold Country of the Sierra Foothills. We make a trip to this region at least once a year and have discovered some very amazing wineries producing high quality wines equal to anywhere in California. In this trip, we introduce this region by exploring Amador and El Dorado Counties, both with a long history of wines but under the radar of most wine country travelers. Our headquarters for this wine country getaways is the best little town in Gold Country, Sutter Creek.

There are several good B&B’s in Sutter Creek but our favorite is the Hanford House Inn. Four years ago, Robert and Athena Gordon purchased the Inn and brought tender, loving care to this B & B. You are sure to find your stay here, which includes a gourmet breakfast, relaxed and enjoyable. For more lodging choices, see our list of recommended for places to stay in the area.

Skinner Vineyards

March 3, 2011 by joe

We had the opportunity to take a sneak preview of the Skinner Vineyards tasting room that will open in just a few weeks. With its panoramic views, it will easily qualify as one of the “Best Views” of any tasting room in California. And that is just the start of the tale of this remarkable winery in the wine region known as Fair Play in El Dorado County. We met up with winemaker Chris Pittenger at the Skinner Vineyard’s winery this past Sunday, Feb 27, and spent the next couple of hours tasting some excellent Rhone-style wines and learning all about this fascinating winery.

The Skinner wine saga began in 1860 when James Skinner purchased land in the Sierra Foothills and began a very successful business making wine and brandy. When Prohibition struck, the winery and brandy distillery ceased operation. Today it’s the great-great-great grandson of James Skinner, Mike Skinner, who has re-established this historic winery just a few miles from the original site.

Family photos of the original winery were used to recreate the same style

Chris Pittenger gave us a brief tour of the recently-completed winery facility. Chris was brought in as winemaker in 2007. With 20 years of winemaking experience, Chris said it is nice to be able to build a winery and install a selection of his favorite winemaking equipment, which is perfect for this size of a winery. For example, the winery is equipped with small fermenting tanks, some 2 tons and some 4 tons. All are jacketed and fully-temperature controlled. Each varietal clone or vineyard-selected grapes are kept in separate fermenting tanks and then transferred to French oak barrels. Case production now is 1500 cases of 11 different wines and the facility will be able to handle up to 5000 cases of wine annually.

Small and jacket stainless steel fermenting tanks

Chris led us through several barrel samples comparing varietals from the past two vintages. We then journeyed outside and up the path to the almost-completed tasting room. It was a Sunday, and several construction workers were very busy hoping to finish the tasting room within the next couple of weeks. We sat out on the deck of the tasting room and tasted five of the current vintages. What amazing views! We could see snow-capped Sierra Mountains to the east and the west make out the skyline of the city of Sacramento.

Winemaker Chris Pittenger

We were very impressed with the quality of the wines. The Grenache, as Chris puts it, is his Pinot Noir wine. It is light with fantastic berry flavors and subtle spices. The Mourvèdre is a delightful, medium-bodied wine perfect for your favorite foods. Another favorite is a wine labeled “Eighteen Sixty-One.” This wine is patterned after the wines of the Southern Rhone, blended with Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. Then there is 2007 Stoney Creek Syrah aged in new French Oak barrels. The Syrah is a beautiful wine, quite drinkable now but will age beautifully for several years.

These current vintages were made at the Copain facility in Santa Rosa. They are well-made, sophisticated, and finished wines. These are the early days of this winery. As the new winery comes into full production and the vineyards are fully developed, these wines can only get better. I can’t wait to try the future vintages and go back to the completed tasting room on a beautiful warm and sunny day to enjoy a picnic lunch with the Skinner wines.

The tasting room is scheduled to open later this March

Placerville Wineries, Three great wineries

July 29, 2010 by joe

We spent a few days last week exploring the wineries around the Placerville area. These wineries are located in El Dorado County near Highway 50 on the way to South Lake Tahoe. We have long enjoyed visiting the wineries in the Fair Play region of El Dorado County but have had little chance to explore the wineries closer to Placerville. On our trip, we visited ten wineries and found three that we think are not to be missed. We highly recommend a visit to Holly’s Hill Vineyards, Sierra Vista Vineyards, and Miraflores Winery.

One thing we love about visiting small wineries is that you often find the owner and/or winemaker working the tasting room. This was exactly the case at Holly’s Hill and Sierra Vista. The entrance ways to these two wineries are next door to each other, so it’s very easy to visit both on the same excursion.

A view of Holly's Hill