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Dario Cecchini – The Butcher of Chianti Classico

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As we all gradually become vaccination against the COVID disease, we can begin planning travel trips to far away wine country. I am reposting this article in anticipation of tourists thinking about a trip to Chianti. This article is about our unforgettable meeting with one of the great Italian chef and butcher, Mario Cecchini.

If you ever travel to Tuscany, don’t pass up the chance to dine at Dario Cecchini’s Solocicca restaurant and to visit to his butcher shop, Antica Macceleria. We can guarantee this will be one experience extraordinaire you will not soon forget.

Dario Cecchini, the butcher of ChiantiBefore I left the U.S. to embark on my wine adventures in Italy, I watched YouTube videos of the famous butcher of Panzano in Chianti with utter fascination. We were to dine at his restaurant along with fellow wine bloggers and experience the “Whole Steer” dinner. I wasn’t really sure what that meant, so I watched the videos to mentally prepare myself. Dario Cecchini is an 8th generation butcher but he has taken his skill to another level from his predecessors. Not only does he have innovative ideas about his profession, but his amazing outgoing personality, and his love for his trade and the people that come to his butcher shop and restaurant, are what sets him apart. He is truly a living legend in the land of Chianti Classico.

Dario Cecchini butcher shopFirst we walked into Dario’s butcher shop directly across from the restaurant. The first thing that catches your attention is a mannequin with a human body but with the head of a steer. The steer head is eyeballing you as if to say “Hello” and welcome you to the butcher shop. A variety of meat appetizers are there to sample. Jug Chianti wine made by Dario is offered. Suddenly, the living legend appears behind the counter and with a loud and booming voice Dario shouts out: “To Beef or not to Beef, that is the question!” That’s Dario in a nutshell. The music is turned up and people begin to dance, it is an impromptu party like no other.

In the Cave of Solo Ciccia

The Whole Steer dinner is a menu of many beef items, all delectable, including a spicy meat ragu on toast, boiled beef with vegetable salad, and braised beef very tender and tasty. The “Whole Steer” menu consists of ten different items for 30 Euros per person. This is quite a reasonable price to pay for such an extraordinary meal. In San Francisco, I suspect something similar would be well above $50 per person. For an extra 3 Euros, you can get a liter of Dario’s jug wine, or you can bring in your own, and there is no corkage fee. Dario’s vision is to use the steer responsibly and to search for ways to use as much of the steer as is possible for food. In his shop and on his website, he has done something I have not seen before. He has created a diagram outline of the steer which maps the various parts of the steer he uses for each entrée on his restaurant menu or item he sells in this butcher shop.

Dario makes several appearances at our table to toast us and to expound on his philosophy as a butcher. To say the least, he is quite an interesting person. We left very full of food, fun, and happiness and a night never to be forgotten.

Check out this video of the impromptu party at Dario’s shop, Antica Macelleria in Panzano in Chianti. I don’t think you will find this same experience any time soon at your local butcher shop. In fact, I am showing this video to my local butcher and ask him if he could start serving wine and meat goodies while I shop.

A Vineyard Year

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We miss the wine country of California. March will mark one year since our last trip to the wine country. We are inching closer to getting back to wine country visits. We will soon have both doses of the COVID vaccine and will feel much safer to travel. Masks will still be most important.

We enjoy watching this slide video that we put together several years ago. These are photos that I shot over many seasons of visiting the wine country. The slide show gives a brief glimpse of the four seasons in wine country. You will see that wine country is beautiful any time of the year. 

Jazz musician Marc Cary provides the background music from his CD “Focus.” The title “Walk With Me” is so appropriate. Watch the video and walk with me through my rendition of the four seasons in the vineyards.

The Four Seasons in the Vineyards

Cambados – Albariño Land

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Coastal Cambados - Small plots of Albariño vineyards
Coastal Cambados – Small plots of Albariño vineyards

Harvest time in Cambados – Albariño

Update as of August 1, 2020

The tourist office in Santiago De Compostela recommended that if we had a chance, we should be sure to visit the town of Cambados, “It is the center of wine activity in the Rias Baixas.” We packed our bags and left our Parador in Pontevedra, heading towards Cambados for a day trip before heading south towards Madrid. It turned out to be an excellent recommendation. Our day in Cambados was enjoyable and exciting. However, if you are not a wine lover, the trip might not be that impressive.

Albariño grapes in bins
Albariño grapes waiting to be shipped to the winery

Cambados is on the Atlantic Coast, and it was a beautiful ride as we followed the coastline from Pontevedra to Cambados. Everything was green in the area – the hills, the fields, and the vineyards; we were in Green Spain. As we approached the town, we took a couple of side roads and spotted workers harvesting the grapes. Picking grapes in the Rias Baixas is so different from that of the Napa Valley or anywhere in California wine country.

Coastal Cambados
Coastal Cambados

The pace is slow and methodical. In California, the workers literally run with their containers, toss the grapes into a one-ton bin, and then rush back to fill their cartons. Here, the workers have one bin that they fill and then leave it on the ground. The containers are picked up later, placed on palattes, and brought to the winery on small trucks.

Workers stand to harvest the Albariño grapes
Workers stand to harvest the Albariño grapes

In the Rias Baixas, the grape pickers do not have to stoop or couch to pick the grapes which is unique to this area. All the clusters are above them. All the vines are high off the ground. Rias Baixas is a soggy and wet wine country, and the high trellis system protects the grapes from rot.

Martin Codax – Coop Winery

We drove by a winery, Bodega Martin Codax. The crush was at a fever pitch at this winery. Trucks arrived with palettes of grapes that were then positioned on conveyer belts where the bins were dumped and sent to equipment for de-stemming and crushing.

Martin Codax winery

Martín Códax is a cooperative winery, with more than 1,400 small vineyard parcels farmed by 550 families around Cambados. While we watched, several individual growers came to the winery with their harvest. One was a woman who pulled up in a small truck with a palette of grapes. I asked if I could take her picture. She was so proud of the grapes. Her faced filled with joy as she picked up a cluster of grapes to show us. “Aquí, pruébalos, no tienen químicos, son dulces y deliciosos.” (“Here, taste them. They have no chemicals; they are sweet and delicious.”)

Proud of her vines

Cambados is a wine town, and during harvest the entire village celebrates.
There are many Vinotecas or wine shops, and they are all about Albarino wine. If you visit Santiago De Compostela, consider a side trip for a day or two to this beautiful area that loves their Albariño wine.

One of the many small growers who are part of the Martin Codax coop

Martin Codax Albariño

The Martin Codax Albariño wine is widely available in the U.S. The wines are imported by the Gallo Family. BevMo and Total Wine stores carry the entry level of the Martin Codax Albariño for about $15. You might want to give a glass a try while you read our blog. Thanks!

Pappa al Pomodoro – Our try at making this traditional Tuscan soup

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Janelle and I published this article on making Pappa al Pomodoro several years ago. The timing is just perfect for reposting the item. The COVID virus has Wine folks cooking at home, making sourdough bread, and gardening. With fresh tomatoes and Basil in the Victory Garden, it all fits for making this delicious Tuscan Soup.

At the European Media Conference in Italy, we watched Andrea Gagnesi in his kitchen at Badia al Cotibuono in Chianti,  prepare a wonderful traditional Tuscan soup, Pappa al Pomodoro. I’d never heard of Pappa al Pomodoro until then, but it is one commonly prepared in the homes of Tuscan villagers. We each got a small taste of the soup when it was done, and I knew then that I had to try making this soup at home. Well, we have made it twice now and although we love my rendition of the soup, it is not quite as good as the one Andrea Gagnesi made for us that evening. We will continue to tweak the recipe until we have mastered this dish.

Pappa al Pomodoro

Andrea Gagnesi prepares his version of Pappa al Pomodoro

The problem with the cooking demo was that Andrea moved quickly and never mentioned exact measurements for the ingredients used. Some of it had to do with his command of English and some it had to do with his master chef skills, tasting the dish as it cooked and making adjustments on the fly. We took loads of photographs at the demo and also watched a Vimeo video that one of the follow bloggers made, but we had to do some guesswork on the exact amounts of all ingredients. Here is our take on how to prepare and cook Pappa al Pomodoro, perfecto for any season of the year. This recipe serves 6.

Pappa al Pomodoro

  • Two baskets of grape tomatoes. – This is what Andrea used, whereas most recipes call for Roma or San Marzano tomatoes.
  • Half a loaf of day-old sourdough bread, crust removed – crumbled in the food processor
  • ¾ cup red onion chopped fine
  • ¾ cup carrot chopped fine
  • ¾ cup celery chopped fine
  • 4 tablespoons of olive oil
  • Two cloves garlic chopped
  • 2-4 cups of vegetable broth
  • Fresh Basil leaves – 8 to 10
  • Salt and Pepper to taste

Process the grape tomatoes in a food processor to liquefy. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to the sauce, and then simmer the sauce in a pot until tomato sauce thickens – 60 minutes.

Add three tablespoons of olive oil. Sauté and caramelize the veggie mix of onions, carrots and celery (Sofrito). Use high heat to cook as quickly as possible. When the Sofrito is ready, add one or two cups of the tomato mixture and the chopped garlic. Cook until liquid is absorbed and the mixture is very thick – about two minutes.

Add a handful of crumbled bread and mix together until bread absorbs all. Then add the veggie broth and the remaining tomato sauce. Add more bread to thicken and then cook until the soup mixture is thick. Maybe 30 to 45 minutes at a simmer. If you want a thinner soup add more of the broth.

Five minutes before you serve the soup, add the fresh basil leaves. Andrea tore the leaves into small pieces. At the very end, add salt and pepper to taste.

Since the soup is thick with the bread, you don’t need a huge serving unless this is your main course. Serve about a cup to each person. You can also garnish with a few basil leaves. You must serve this dish with a beautiful Chianti wine. 

Buon Appetito!

Pappa al Pomodoro

Eco-Friendly Wine Route

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Eco Friendly Wine Route in the Napa Valley

Many wineries in the Napa Valley can boast that they are eco-friendly in some fashion: certified organic, sustainable, biodynamic, Napa Green or solar powered. If you and your friends are environmentally conscious, then you may like visiting these five wineries. Each of these wineries is currently open and accepting reservations. Call it your Eco-Friendly Wine Route. 

The Eco-Friendly Wine Route

  • Robert Sinskey – Biodynamic
  • Honig Winery – Sustainable
  • Round Pond Estate – Sustainable
  • Frog’s Leap – Organic, sustainable
  • Casa Nuestra- Organic

This wine route is centered around the Silverado Trail that runs along the eastern side of the Valley. Use the map below as your guide for getting to the wineries that you would like to visit on this trail. Always check the winery’s website for tasting-room hours and for booking tours.

Robert Sinskey Vineyards

We begin our wine country getaway at Robert Sinskey Vineyards. The winery is located just north of Oak Knoll Road at 6320 Silverado Trail. It is on the right as you drive north. Robert Sinskey is a certified biodynamic winery and uses solar power. The terrace is a beautiful spot to sip some wine and take a look at the beautiful valley floor. Check the Robert Sinskey Website for tasting details, food pairing, and reservations.

Honig Winery

“Family owned, sustainably farmed, and solar powered” is the slogan at the Honig Winery. This winery officially had its start in 1984 and is one of the first in the Napa Valley to start a program of sustainable farming. It has been a model for other wineries in California. To visit and hear about sustainable farming, you will need to make an appointment. We are particularly fond of the Honig Sauvignon Blanc labels, the Napa Valley, and the Rutherford. “Sustainable” is a somewhat vague term, but essentially means that all farming adds to the land and does not harm the earth in any form. “Sustainable” also means that the vineyards will keep the staff working long term.

Honig Tasting

Honig Tasting

Round Pond Estate

Round Pond is one of the new kids on the block with the first vintage date of 2002. The MacDonnell family owns the winery, olive oil plant, and the vineyards. 95% of the grapes are sold to other wineries, with the remainder allocated for Round Pond Wines production. “Sustainable” is the operative word at Round Pond. The winery has one of the most impressive views for a wine tasting. The patio is where you reserve your spot and enjoy a variety of food and wine pairings. The gardens, of course, are organically farmed. Check the Website for the various tasting options and reservations.

The Terrace at Round Pond

The Terrace at Round Pond

Frog’s Leap

Frog’s Leap is another of the pioneering eco-friendly wineries of the Napa Valley. The winery has two different tastings for tourists, the Signature Seated Tasting, and the Guided Tour and Tasting. Both require reservations. Frog’s Leap is a popular winery, so plan accordingly. You will love the entire environment at Frog’s Leap.

Frog's Leap

Frog’s Leap

Casa Nuestra Winery

For our last winery, we head north almost to Calistoga to the Casa Nuestra Winery. This is another family-owned winery. This is a bit of a change of pace from the other wineries. Casa Nuestra is very small and on the funky side. It is a very fun tasting room to visit. The winery has been committed to organic farming for almost two decades. The winery also uses extensive solar power. The wines at Casa Nuestra are atypical of Napa Valley wines. Here you will find labels like Verdelho, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Tinto, and Symphony. 

During the COVID situation, Casa Nuestra is only able to accommodate Wine Club members only. Please be patient, and try later in the year. 

There are many other wineries in the Napa Valley that are eco-friendly. You can check this list to see what other wineries are environmentally friendly.

Catch Napa Valley Harvest 2017

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harvest cabernet

On York Lane in St. Helena, harvesting Cabernet Sauvignon

Get ready to catch the Napa Valley Harvest 2017

The Napa Valley harvest 2017 is underway, and now is the time for every wine country buff to plan to watch all the activities that take place during the harvest. The Napa Valley is one of the best spots for viewing the “crush” because of the number of vineyards and wineries in such a concentrated area. If you spend a few days in the Napa Valley from mid-September through October, you are likely to see all the harvest activities: the grape picking, the sorting, the crushing and fermentation. It is the Napa Valley at its best for the tourist. Start making your plans now to watch the most exciting show in the world of wine.

The Napa Valley harvest 2017 has already started as of late July with Mumm Napa picking Pinot Noir grapes for its sparkling wine. White wine grapes are next to be harvested. The last grapes are usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, either in late September or in October. The weather plays a big part. Cool weather delays the harvest, hot weather the opposite.

Napa Valley Harvest 2017 Travel Tips

We have some tips for getting the most out of harvest in the Napa Valley. One of the most educational activities you can do is to take a tour. Check the Napa Valley Vintners Website to search for wineries that have complete winery tours.

If you want to watch the actual harvesting of the grapes, you’ll need to get up just before sunrise. Picking of the grapes is done early before the heat of the day. Drive the Valley and look for signs of the harvest. Look for several cars parked on the side of the road, half-ton bins ready to be filled, or small harvest baskets at the ready, as well as tractor trucks. More than likely harvest will be taking place in deep in the vineyards. Bring your camera or smartphone and walk into the vineyards; when you spot the workers, ask the foreman if it is okay to take pictures.

During the day, stop in at any tasting room and ask about the crush activities. The staff usually knows what harvest activities are taking place at their winery and what is in store for the following couple of days. Our strategy is to stop at a winery, initially bypass the tasting room and walk to the where the crush facilities are located to see what activities are taking place. No one really seems to care that you are there as long as you stand back far enough not to get in the way. Everyone is working so intensely that you will hardly be noticed.

This is a favorite time for tourists, so plan ahead. If you want to spend any length of time, be sure to book your accommodations early. But often, just going up for the day will be fun enough. Enjoy and don’t forget to pack that camera.

Check our Napa Valley Wine Country Planning Guide for complete details on where to stay, dine, and other fun activities.

First Time to Napa Valley: Must Do Activities

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Travel tips Napa Valley

First time to Napa: Travel tips Napa Valley

First Time to Napa Valley: Must Do Activities

We often get emails from first-time travelers to the Napa Valley asking advice for where to go or what “must activities” to include in their trip. Here is our list of what we think first-time visitors to the Napa Valley should consider doing. These activities don’t just apply to the first timer, anytime you visit the Napa Valley, these ideas should be considered.

Take a winery tour - Hendry Barrel Room

First time to Napa Valley: Take a winery tour – Hendry Barrel Room

 

Take a Winery Tour
Take a tour that covers the entire process of winemaking from the vineyard to the finished product. Here are two that are among the best winery tours in the Valley. You will need to call ahead to make an appointment. At Hendry Wines, owner and winemaker extraordinaire, George Hendry, will take you on a two-hour tour and tasting. We think this is the best tour of any in the Napa Valley. Another great tour is at Frog’s Leap Winery. This one will last about an hour. Don’t forget to show your appreciation by buying at least a few bottles of wine. When you open one of these wines at home, it will bring back memories of your trip and the wine will taste that much better. Wine always tastes better when there is a story behind it.

vineyard picnci

First time to Napa Valley: The vineyard picnic

 

Picnic in the Vineyards
This is one of our favorite activities, so much so that the weather has to be pretty bad to prevent us from picnicking. Either prepare a deli lunch or buy one at one of the many great delis in the Valley. Here are four wineries where you can sit and view vineyards: Clos du Val, Robert Sinskey, August Briggs, and Folie a Deux. See the Trip Planner for the exact location.

Beringer Brothers

First time to Napa Valley: Visit one Napa Valley’s orginal wineries

 

Visit One of Napa Valley’s Older Wineries
Before 1970 there were fewer than 30 wineries to visit. Today, there are over 300. Take a step back in time and visit Beringer, Charles Krug, Inglenook, or Schramsberg (appointment).

Casa Nuestra

First time to Napa Valley: Casa Nuestra – a very cozy family winery

Visit a Small Family-Run Winery
There is nothing like meeting the owner and winemaker of a small winery. They are always very passionate about their work and their wines. Here are a few small family-run wineries: Tres Sabores , Casa Nuestra, Smith-Madrone, and Elyse. It is always fun to visit a large corporate-owned winery immediately afterward to get a real appreciation of the small family-run winery. See our list of corporate wineries.

Greystone CIA Center

Greystone CIA Center

Visit the Culinary Institute of America
The CIA is housed in the Christian Brothers Winery stone building constructed in 1888. Drop by and visit the store, check out the displays of old winemaking equipment and barrels. If you have time consider lunch at the Wine Spectator Restaurant. The view is very beautiful.

about wine country getaways

Joe and Janelle in St. Helena, September 2015. St Clement winery on the hill.

 

Bring Your Camera — Take Photos
What’s a trip to the Napa Valley without photos? Take your digital camera or Smart Phone and take many shots of every place you go on the trip.

Hire a Driver
Rumor has it that various police agencies are beginning to increase patrols on wine tasting room exits. If you hire a driver, have your plan ready and hand it to the driver. There are several independent limo drivers who do a great job.


Check the Winery Finder/Trip Planner for sorting through wineries and mapping your trip.

Where to stay in the Napa Valley

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Napa Valley Lodging, best lodging in the Napa Valley

Napa Valley Lodge in Yountville

What a dilemma it is to find the proper lodging for anyone traveling to the Napa Valley for a first-time vacation. The rates in 2017 are as high as they have ever been. More travelers than ever are spending time in the Napa Valley, so it is tougher to find lodging. For weekends, you must book for a two-night minimum.

Sure, you can check Trip Advisor and the like for some recommendations, but you cannot always rely on those for sound advice. We have been traveling to the Napa Valley for 50 years. I think we have stayed in just about every style of lodging from the town of Napa to the north end of the Valley in Calistoga. We have stayed in budget lodging, excellent lodging, B&B’s, and we have even rented vacation homes. Take a look at our list of recommended Napa Valley lodging for each Napa Valley town, and you’re sure to find something that fits your needs. If we have something listed, we have either stayed there or taken a quick inspection of the place.

Lodging tips for the Napa Valley

 

  • We always like to stay within walking distance of fine restaurants and shopping. We like to enjoy our wine with dinner, so we either walk or take a cab. We don’t drink and drive. The centers of the towns of Napa, Yountville, and Calistoga are giving the traveler many choices for lodging within a short distance of many restaurants.
  • Sometimes it is more fun to make your lunch the main meal of the day. If you do that, then you can pack some appetizers for your room for an evening wine hour. Many of the hotels and B&B’s have a wine hour and serve appetizers. Some, like the Stevenson Inn in Calistoga, have tables and chairs set up outdoors for guests to use. Always check the lodging website for package deals. These deals include spas, golf, complimentary tasting room coupons, and many other perks.
  • Traveling during the week is always less expensive.
  • We don’t spend much time in our hotel rooms, so for that reason, we are not interested in all the elaborate amenities at the very top-of-the-line and expensive hotels. We just want something convenient, clean and comfortable. The money we save, we spend on wine and restaurant dining.
  • We prefer not to have a breakfast package included. We like exploring nearby coffee shops and breakfast spots. This is where all the locals hang out, and we would rather feast with the locals than having breakfast at our hotel.
  • What are your travel tips?

Important Resource pages:

Alston Park – Hiking in the Napa Valley

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Easy hiking Alston Park in Napa

Easy hiking – Alston Park in Napa

Alston Park – Hiking in the Napa Valley

On our last visit to the Napa Valley, we discovered a great hiking spot in the Napa Valley. The area is Alston Park. It is a park that the locals have been hiking for years. If you feel like you have had too much of the good life of the Napa Valley and a little exercise is in order, Alston Park is an excellent choice.

Within less than a mile of hiking, there are great views of the Napa Valley. The trails lead into beautiful meadows and woodland forests. There are side attractions of amazing homes and beautiful vineyards. If you are a trail runner, this is a fantastic place to do a morning run.

Alston Park is a Napa City Park. There are trail guides posted at the entrances but no hard copy to take with you. To get to the park, take a left at Trower Road from Highway 29 in Napa. Drive to the end of Trower to Dry Creek Road. There are two entrances on Dry Creek Road, about a mile apart. The south entrance is an area where dogs can run free. Take the north entrance where dogs must be on a leash. There are a few benches and tables scattered throughout the park and packing in a lunch is a very good idea on a beautiful day.  Rules often change so always check the Napa Parks Website for the latest hiking information.

After your hike, head to one of the many great wine trails in the Napa Valley. Taste wine and enjoy the beauty of the Napa Valley. Here are our favorite wine trails and wineries to visit.

Additional information on the town of Napa

Happy hikers at Alston Park

Happy hikers at Alston Park

The Tasting Room Only Winery – What Do You Miss?

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Yountville cornerston

Cornerstone tasting room – great Cabs

Storefront Tasting Room or a Real Winery

I’m totally amazed at the number of tasting-room-only wineries that have set up shop in the Napa Valley. I’m not talking about a wine bar, but a tasting room where visitors can come in and taste small amounts of wine just as you would at a real winery. In the business areas of Napa, Yountville, St. Helena, and Calistoga there are numerous storefront tasting rooms. Most represent one winery, but a handful will serve wines from several wineries.

For the visitor the advantage to visit tasting rooms in town is convenience. The visitor can walk and visit several tasting rooms within a relatively short distance and not have to drive. Why not walk out of your hotel or B&B and spend the day leisurely strolling along without worrying about who will be the designated driver or about paying all that cash to hire a limo.

If you decide to visit tasting rooms in Napa Valley town centers, what do you miss? Well, first and foremost, the incredible beauty of the Napa Valley. Driving from Napa to Calistoga at any time of the year is not to be missed. The hills and vineyards are special and give peace of mind and tranquility. The majority of visitors that come to the Napa Valley want to get the sense and feel of a real winery. We love to walk or picnic in the vineyards. We want the chance to smell fermenting wine, catch a peak of a bottling line, or walk through a room full of oak barrels, or even get the opportunity to taste a barrel sample or meet the winemaker. Don’t miss out on all this, as an old friend of mine used to say, “Be there or be square.” The working winery in the Napa Valley is the place to be.

Resources for the wine country traveler

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